Highlights
The wildlife is the reason to come: national parks like Andasibe-Mantadia (home to the indri, the largest lemur, whose eerie call echoes through the rainforest), Ranomafana and Isalo protect a staggering array of lemurs, chameleons and orchids. Night walks reveal mouse lemurs and geckos found nowhere else.
The Avenue of the Baobabs near Morondava — ancient, towering trees glowing at sunset — is Madagascar's iconic image, near the extraordinary limestone 'stone forest' of the Tsingy de Bemaraha, a UNESCO site of razor-sharp pinnacles and canyons.
The long coastlines add idyllic islands and beaches: Nosy Be in the north-west for diving and relaxation, Île Sainte-Marie in the east for whale-watching and pirate history, and the diving haven of Ifaty in the south-west. The capital Antananarivo ('Tana'), a hilly, chaotic city of stairways and rice paddies, is the base for exploring, and the RN7 road south is a classic overland route past parks and highland towns.
When to go
April to October (the cool, dry season) is the best all-round time — good for wildlife, hiking and the coast, with September to November especially rewarding as lemurs give birth and the jacarandas bloom.
The hot, wet season (November to March) brings heavy rain, lush landscapes and cyclone risk on the east coast, making some roads impassable, though it's prime for reptiles and chameleons. Whale-watching off the east coast peaks July to September. Given the huge distances and rough roads, the dry season is strongly preferable for travel.
Visa & entry
Nearly all visitors can obtain a tourist visa on arrival at the international airports (or via e-visa) for short stays, typically up to 30 or 60 days, for a fee. A passport valid six months with blank pages, proof of onward travel and often a yellow-fever certificate (if arriving from an endemic area) are required.
Confirm the current visa fees, duration options and any e-visa requirement on Madagascar's official immigration site before you travel, as arrangements can change.
Health & safety
Madagascar is generally welcoming, but it is one of the world's poorest countries, so petty theft and opportunistic crime occur, particularly in Antananarivo and after dark — keep valuables hidden, avoid walking alone at night, and use trusted transport. Road-traffic accidents and appalling road conditions are the biggest practical hazard; journeys are long, slow and best done by day with an experienced driver.
Malaria is present (take prophylaxis), and cyclones affect the east coast in the wet season. Health facilities are very limited, so comprehensive insurance with evacuation cover is essential. Check your government's current travel advisory before departure.
Getting around
Distances are vast and roads notoriously poor, so travel is slow — a hired 4x4 with an experienced local driver is the standard and safest way to explore, and most visitors book a guided circuit. Domestic flights (though sometimes unreliable) connect Tana to Nosy Be, Morondava, Diego and other hubs, hugely valuable for saving days of brutal driving.
Shared 'taxi-brousse' minibuses are the cheap local option but slow, crowded and uncomfortable for long hauls. Given the effort of overland travel, most itineraries combine a few flights with focused regional road trips rather than trying to see everything.
Money
The Malagasy Ariary is the local currency and Madagascar is very much a cash economy — carry plenty of cash, especially outside Antananarivo, as cards are accepted only in upmarket hotels and restaurants in the capital and tourist hubs. ATMs exist in cities and larger towns but can be unreliable and impose low limits.
Euros are the easiest currency to exchange (bring clean notes); US dollars work too. Budget for the significant cost of domestic flights and 4x4 hire. Tipping guides (park guides are mandatory and skilled), drivers and staff is customary and genuinely important to local livelihoods.
Madagascar