Highlights
Lomé, the relaxed capital on the coast, is unusual for having beaches right in the city — a long palm-lined shore, the huge and famous Akodesséwa Fetish Market (a striking, if confronting, voodoo market of ingredients and charms), the Grand Marché, and a laid-back, walkable centre. It's one of the more agreeable West African capitals.
The UNESCO-listed Koutammakou (the Land of the Batammariba) in the north-east is Togo's cultural treasure — a stunning landscape of 'takienta' tower-houses, sculptural fortified mud dwellings that are among Africa's most distinctive traditional architecture, home to a fascinating living culture.
The green, hilly Kloto region around Kpalimé, in the south-west, offers cool air, waterfalls (Womé, Kpimé), butterfly-rich forests, hiking up Mount Agou (Togo's highest), and craft villages. The coast east of Lomé brings the historic town of Aného and quiet beaches, while the north offers savannah, wildlife reserves and traditional cultures. Togo rewards those seeking authentic, off-the-map West Africa.
When to go
November to February (the main dry season) is the best time — drier and more comfortable for the beaches, hill country and villages, avoiding the heaviest rains and humidity, with the harmattan haze possible from December.
The rainy seasons (roughly April-July and a shorter September-October spell in the south) bring downpours; the north has a single rainy season. Togo is hot and tropical, more humid on the southern coast and drier in the north. For the most practical travel and comfortable conditions, aim for the dry season, roughly November to February.
Visa & entry
Togo has made entry easier: many nationalities can obtain an e-visa online (or a visa on arrival at Lomé airport, finalised on arrival) for short tourist stays. A passport valid six months, a yellow-fever vaccination certificate (mandatory) and proof of onward travel are required.
Confirm the current e-visa/visa-on-arrival process for your nationality on Togo's official immigration portal before you travel, as it's the standard route for most visitors and requirements can change.
Health & safety
Togo is generally stable and welcoming for travellers, and the southern areas (Lomé, Kpalimé, the coast) are safe with normal precautions against petty theft — keep valuables secure, especially in busy Lomé and after dark. The important caveat is the far north: areas near the Burkina Faso border face a rising terrorism/kidnapping risk and carry serious advisories with heightened security measures — check current guidance carefully before any far-northern travel.
Malaria is widespread (take prophylaxis) and a yellow-fever certificate is mandatory. Road-traffic accidents, including on motorcycle taxis, are a real risk. Healthcare is limited. Check your government's current, region-specific travel advisory before departure.
Getting around
Getting around Togo is mainly by road, and the country's narrow shape makes north-south travel straightforward if long. Shared 'bush taxis' and minibuses connect towns cheaply, while a hired car with a driver is the most comfortable way to tour, given variable roads. In Lomé and towns, 'zémidjan' motorcycle taxis are the ubiquitous, fast, cheap local way around (negotiate fares; wear a helmet), alongside regular taxis.
The hill country around Kpalimé and the northern Koutammakou region are best explored with local guides and a sturdy vehicle. Given road conditions and northern security concerns, plan longer trips with reputable operators, and avoid night driving.
Money
Togo uses the West African CFA Franc, pegged to the euro for a stable rate. It is largely a cash economy — carry cash for markets, zémidjans, transport, tips and rural areas, as card acceptance is limited to some upmarket hotels in Lomé. ATMs are available in Lomé and larger towns and accept international cards, though with limits, so withdraw when you can.
Euros are the easiest currency to exchange (bring clean notes). Togo is affordable, offering good value. Bargaining is expected in markets. Tipping is customary and appreciated — around 10% in restaurants, and small tips for drivers, guides and helpful service.